I get enough of it from the ocean when the waves toss me off the surfboard. Yes, I finally tried my hand at surfing, but the circumstances for it were not ideal for someone who has never surfed before.
I went with my neighbour who bought an old surfboard for $55, it's a really small short one, which I'm told makes it quite a lot harder. The beach we went too wasn't very busy, which was nice, but the waves were huge, it was a little scary. Standing in front of them as they crashed some of them were 15 feet over my head. (If I account for storyteller's bias, which is usually around a 50% markup, they were probably more like 10 feet over my head). Even still, when they crashed on you, you didn't know which way was up for a few seconds.
In the end it was a fairly unsuccessful first attempt, I sort of got up on the board, but I did so while still holding the board, so I don't think it quite counts. I think I need to use an easier board and actually have someone tell me what I am supposed to do.
That's it for now, next post, I hope to have a shiny new car (old and rusted might be more like it),
Jesse
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